Articles by Jean Oh
Jean Oh
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Bostock, financiers and more at Cedrat
Before opening his own patisserie in a residential nook of Seoul’s Daechi-dong, Cedrat owner and pastry chef Choi Kyu-sung had already amassed over a decade of experience in pastry making. It began when he enrolled at the Institut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie in France to study pastries and bread making. He then stayed in France for over 10 years, honing his skills before returning to Korea to work as head chef at two cafes. It was only after that when Choi felt the time had come to str
Food Dec. 20, 2018
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Nashville-style hot chicken at Brave Roosters
The journey began when five guys decided to take a stab at Korea’s fried chicken market. “Korea is famous for its chicken,” said Brave Roosters director Choi Se-hoon, 44. “We wanted to enter that market.” Choi and his colleagues balked at the idea of jumping into an already crowded and competitive industry without a specific idea of what kind of fried chicken they would be serving. Brave Roosters, which specializes in Nashville-style hot chicken, soft opened in Seoul’s Sinsa-dong in November. (
Food Nov. 29, 2018
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Ohagi and matcha at Mochibang
At Mochibang -- a small, artisanal Japanese-style dessert shop -- one will find “ohagi.” In fact, one will find several variations of the Japanese rice cake customarily served during the autumnal equinox. Mochibang specializes in wagashi, or Japanese sweets, with a focus on rice cakes like mochi and ohagi. (Photo credit: Park Hyun-koo/The Korea Herald)Owners Lee Bo-ra and Jeon Chan-hong fill their ohagi with everything from “marrons glaces” (candied chestnuts) to fragrant “yuja” (citron). The ma
Food Nov. 15, 2018
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Intricate French-style desserts at L’Aubenuit
L’Aubenuit owner-patissier Lim Ho-yeon patiently waited for the opportunity to serve his patisserie’s namesake dessert. “This was something I had in mind when I was in France,” Lim, 30, said. Lim was in France for six years. Before France, Lim studied Korean cuisine in college. He then started to develop an interest in desserts. In 2011, he decided to delve further into the realm of sweets, traveling to France to study dessert at two schools. Fast forward six years to Lim’s return to Korea and t
Food Nov. 1, 2018
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Multifaceted sushi at Sushi Ryukou
In a city with plenty of sushi options, it can be a challenge for a new sushiya to stand out from the crowd. Sushi Ryukou took that risk, opening in Sinsa-dong this August. “I wanted to show my own personal approach to sushi,” co-owner and chef Kim Kwang-min, 33, said. Kim honed his skills while studying and living in Japan for six years and racked up more experience at a Seoul hotel. Sushi Ryukou‘s negi toro maki (front) is beautifully layered with sushi rice, nori, tuna, the white part of the
Food Oct. 11, 2018
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Aromatic, eclectic eats at Ithaca
The food at Ithaca, chef Kim Tae-yoon’s latest restaurant, is not easy to categorize.The food exhibits Korean, Japanese, Middle Eastern, Italian and Greek influences, all skillfully fused into incredibly aromatic, spiced and texturally fascinating dishes. Fragrant shiso and fennel add an aromatic layer to Ithaca’s sous-vide whelk, lotus root and tomatoes. (Park Hyun-koo/The Korea Herald)“The food here has no boundaries,” said Ithaca co-owner and chef Kim, 38. Kim, an avid traveler, explained ho
Food Sept. 13, 2018
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Uber-fresh, housemade mozzarella at Slowwcheese
As advertised by the big bold white letters adorning the storefront of Slowwcheese, this new shop specializes in mozzarella. Every morning, cheesemaker and owner Min Jin-woo makes around 3.5 kilograms of curds for mozzarella fior di latte. “That means its small-batch,” said Min, 35. At Slowwcheese, uber-fresh mozzarella fior di latte is stretched and plaited to order, perched over tart and sweet "Daejeo" tomatoes and fragrant basil for toothsome Caprese salad. (Park Hyun-koo/The Korea Herald)Wh
Food Aug. 16, 2018
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Trendy, toothsome eats at Taupe
Taupe, a new restaurant near Dosan Park in Seoul, quickly reeled in reservations when it soft opened in June. “Yes, response has been very hot,” said Taupe sous chef Kim Chul-ho, admitting he and his team have been very busy whipping up popular eats like their savoy cabbage rolls, pork belly with ginger apple puree, and salmon and green bean risotto. Snap-worthy eats and a picturesque view from its third and fourth floor perch are certainly some of the attractions of this hip, new hotspot. But w
Food July 26, 2018
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Specialty and micro-lot coffee roasted and brewed in-house
At Gray Gristmill, one of the latest additions to Seoul’s ever-growing cafe scene, getting a caffeinated brew is an interactive process. After perusing a selection of 12 different single-origin coffee and blends, cafe-goers choose their coffee and how it will be brewed. All coffee is displayed in vacuum-sealed, single portion packages at the counter with placards detailing their flavor profiles. For instance, there is Gray Gristmill’s single-origin Honduras coffee with “lemongrass tea,” “dried m
Food July 6, 2018
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Flavorful French with an artistic bent
Hulotte -- a fine dining French restaurant into its second year of business -- settled into its new perch in Cheongdam-dong a little over a month ago. The interior is new, the location is new but, owner-chef Lee Seung-jun says, the food is not. The food is the driving force behind Hulotte, and it seems the driving force behind the food is husband-and-wife team Lee and Na Yun-jeong. Hulotte's strip loin pairs juicy cuts of beef coated in a caramelized glaze of cumin, honey and balsamic vinegar w
Food June 8, 2018
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Slice serves up banh mi pizza
The banh mi pizza at Slice -- a fresh, aromatic pie with a fiery kick -- was not on the menu when this eight-seater, New York-style pizza shop opened in Cheongdam-dong a little over two years ago. After about a year in business, owner Alex Ham first put it on the menu as a special and it stuck, becoming a new addition to Slice’s repertoire of pies, which currently total six. “I’m a huge fan of the banh mi sandwich,” said Ham, 46, adding this was “probably the main reason” behind his decision
Food May 26, 2018
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Modern Italian eats at Titolo
The sea urchin pasta at Titolo, a new Italian spot in Seoul’s Cheongdam-dong, looks like a straightforward iteration of the popular dish, like its banking on the huge dollop of sea urchin garnishing it to singlehandedly wow with a massive wash of briny umami. Then the friendly wait staff gently blends the sea urchin into the creamy strands of pasta and everyone digs in. There is a lot going on in this dish, with sea urchin acting as just one of many components to deliver an unctuous, creamy slic
Food May 4, 2018
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Bistro uses fermented ingredients to craft borderless eats
After racking up experience in the realm of fine dining, Joo Woo-seok struck out on his own as head chef of Ferment B nearly six months ago.“I wanted to see what I could do,” Joo, 32, explained his decision to take a risk and helm his own kitchen. At Ferment B, which is located in Seoul’s Sinsa-dong, Joo channels a fine dining aesthetic into semi-casual plates that are beautifully presented, delicate and flavorful. “We aim to use fermented ingredients freely to create dishes inspired by various
Food April 20, 2018
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Artisanal charcuterie at Maison Jo
It started with salami, charcutier Jo Woo-ram, confessed, taking a break from hours spent crafting wobbly, luscious blocks of pate and meltingly soft wheels of blood sausage to explain how it all began. “I went to study cooking in Italy,” Jo, 31, said, where he developed a fondness for salami.When he returned to Korea, he found himself craving salami and decided to make it himself. “It tasted good but I wasn’t sure if it was accurate,” he recalled. Maison Jo sells a diverse selection of pate, sa
Food March 31, 2018
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No phone number, but great tarts at My Funny Dessert
My Funny Dessert’s ascension to worth-the-wait status has been a year in the making, and that is something of a miracle given the shop’s hard-to-find location and utter lack of a phone number. Situated on a small street about a 10-minute walk away from Hanti Station in Daechi-dong, the three-seat nook was originally meant to be a pastry and sweets atelier, but opened as a tiny French dessert shop last February. The three-seater shop offers a variety of desserts including tarts, macarons, madelei
Food March 16, 2018
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